Sailing to Tahaa – Mantas and Coral Gardens – August 23
On August 11th we set sail for the island of Tahaa, about 120 miles to the north west of Moorea. Tahaa is among a collection of 4 islands all within a few miles of each other, the most famous being Bora Bora. We had already been to Bora Bora and Tahaa on a sail with Dawn’s sister Brenda. We preferred Tahaa to the others because of the great snorkeling and fewer tourists.
We pulled anchor in Cooks Bay just as the sun was setting. We had to exit the pass in the dark, but it is very well market, and we have transited it 3 times already so we were familiar with the route. It was a VERY fast sail to Tahaa, sailing on a broad reach with 20 knots of wind. We averaged over 8 knots and we were anchored in Tapuamu Bay by 10 am the next morning. I am always a bit tired after an overnight sail, so we rested at anchor for the rest of the day.
That evening we were invited for some “Sun Downers” on Pacific Wind, so Dawn, Danielle, Catalina and I headed over their boat. Ulf and Monica have sailed Pacific Wind from Sweden. That is a LONG WAY! We have crossing paths with them several times while traversing French Polynesia and we have enjoyed several meals and beach barbeques together. It was nice to see them again and they ALWAYS love to have Catalina on board!
On the 13 we got out early to go to Mantas Point to try to find some Manta Rays. It was only a short 3 minute dinghy ride from our boat, and we had seen Manta Rays there the last time we visited. And Manta Point did not disappoint! We found one Manta cursing around we got there, and 20 minutes later 4 more appeared. We were so excited to see Mantas again and for Wendy to experience with us.
The Mantas varied in size from about a 3 foot wing span to over 6 feet wide. Watching them glide effortlessly and graceful through the water is just magical. Then to see 4 of them swimming in formation with each other was a special treat. We caught of video of this that includes me, Danielle and Catalina with the Mantas.
After we had our time with the Mantas we were off to the Coral Garden. The Coral Garden was located in between two motus on the barrier reef. Motus are really just small islands that sit on the barrier reef.
The Coral Garden is a special place and well known for its amazing snorkeling. It is easy to access because it is right off the beach of a motu, and it is full of fish and colorful coral. This makes it a popular tourist location. Below is a photo from above to give you and idea of what it looks like.
As beautiful as it is from above its even more beautiful from below the waters. The Coral Garden is teaming with colorful tropical fish. We saw several eels and dozens of pink anemones with flashy neon clown fish darting in and out of their tenacles.
If you come at the right time, the Coral Garden becomes more of a Disney Ride than a snorkel with a gentle current pushing you along all the sights. At the end you get out on the beach, then walk along the waters edge, and hop in a ride back down. It feels more like you are flying across the coral as the current pushes you along. It’s an amazing experience!
The following day we took a dinghy ride to a place called the Coral Maze. The Coral Maze is located on the inside edge of the reef, near the breaking waves. As the name implies, it’s a collection of hundreds of clumps of coral making it a maze to swim around. It was the healthiest most colorful coral we have experienced in the Society islands. Dawn, Wendy and I were just in awe of the beauty. It is hard to describe and photograph just how overwhelmingly beautiful it is. We all just looked in awe at each other after we got done, reflecting on what we had seen. God a truly created and Earth with beauty beyond words.
Me Dawn and Wendy talking about what we saw
Wendy’s time with us was drawing to the end. She definitely got the deluxe experience package, swimming with sting rays, sharks, humpback whales, manta rays and tropical fish. I was counting on a BIG TIP from her 😊.
Over the coming days most of our focus turned to the weather, which is a big area of thought and discussion when living on the ocean. The forecast was showing strong winds coming our way, not just for a day or two, but for a solid week! We had not seen a forecast with this much wind for this length of time since we started on this adventure.
Wendy made the decision to leave a couple of days early to avoid the wind and the bouncing boat that comes with it. Meanwhile Dawn had received calls from Darby that she really needed a hand with her new baby, Raeya. I guess have a newborn and an almost 2 year old can be a bit overwhelming!
So Dawn got herself booked on the same flight home that Wendy was on. On August 17th we put them on a ferry headed to Papeete and said our goodbyes. It was sad to see Wendy go, we all had so much fun together, and Wendy had the same enthusiasm for this incredible place that we have. But it was REALLY hard saying goodbye to Dawn!
Dawn has been an amazing and supportive partner and cheerleader for his adventure! There is NO WAY I could have done this without her and her help. Having Dawn as my first mate for the last 3.5 months here in French Polynesia has made this the best trip and memory that we could ever have. We had so many decisions to make, repairs to do, voyages to plan, atolls to navigate and weather to discuss – without her, impossible to do! Thank you SO MUCH my LOVE. I will miss you and can’t wait to see you when I sail back home!
For the next week, Danielle and I just basically waited out the wind. Even though we anchored in a sheltered cove on the leeward side of the island, wind would funnel through the mountain ridges and slam into us with great force, with many gusts hitting the 40 knot range. I have a LOT of confidence in the holding power of our anchor, but still it gets on your nerves and makes you worry whenthe boat is getting slammed so hard it heels over and stuff falls off of counter tops.
Danelle and I examined and dug into twice daily weather forecasts looking for a break in the wind so we could make our way back to Moorea, then Tahiti. That small break came a week later when we left Tahaa, just the of us for the first time, for the open ocean. More on that journey next….